M5: Two Foot Hawaiian
Pacific Ocean Hookipa
Started the day surfing pavilions at Hookipa with the family – fun waves, slightly bigger than the last time. This was the first north swell to break a long drought. One local said there were a ton of surfers out at 6 am. Middles and the peak at the point were still busy when we arrived at about 9 am.
Eat my lunch and then waited for the wind to fill in. Mistake. Should have rigged big and taken advantage of the stable, but light wind and clean waves.
Took to the water on 84 / 4.5 and made it out without incident, but it was two light to plane. Just about got washed onto the rocks at one point. Lost a contact. Drifted down to Lanes. Things were not going to well. Then caught just enough wind to work my way back in (working the sail and board the whole time just to keep moving). Grabbed the 5.2 and it was looking so light I snapped on the 111. Even this was not quite enough so I called it a day.
For a day that held so my promise (NE swell forecast) I left feeling a little empty, but thankful that both my gear and I were all safely back on the beach (came really close to getting washed up on the rocks twice).
Quote of the day:
Local 1 (to Local 2): “Looks like about 2 foot Hawaiian to me.” This minutes after I just squeaked over a wave that seemed to be about 10’ tall.
Wind: 1 (out of five stars)
Really strange unstable wind.
Water/Waves: 4 (out of five stars)
Nice clean NE swell. People were surfing the whole break at Hookipa in the morning from the point, through middles, to the pavilions! First time there was enough swell to see this happen (and from what I understand it has been a ‘light’ summer for swell). There were some nice clean lines, but some closing out (dumping sections) and a few vertical faces that were well over head high.
Jumps: 1 (out of five stars)
Riding was favoured over jumping today.
Stoke: 1 (out of five stars)
Surfers were stroked, windsurfers not so much. 10 surfers rule on the peak was in effect – so the windsurfers had to stay west of the peak pinching everyone onto a narrow break just off the point.